Buttonhole-sewing machine.



F. W. OSTROM.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLIOATION FILED MAY 5, 1900.

N 0 MODEL.

W/ TNE SSE S PATENTED APR. 28, 1903.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

A 7TOR/VE Y No. 726,335. PATENTED APR. 28,1903.

F. W. os'raom.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION rum) MAY 5, 1900. no MODEL. s SHEETS-SHEET 2.

A N v ll In q /IV VENTOH v %M W fi%w f M Q Aim DEWEY o6 M 3\ ll No. 726,335 PATENTED APR. 28, 1903.

F. W. OSTROM.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

.APPLIOATION FILED MAY 5, 1900.

N0 MODEL.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

ON llvvewrol? A 7TOHNE Y UniTTnn dTATns 1 PATIENT Orricn.

FREELAND XV. OSTROM, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNOR TO \VHEELER d l/VILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, A CORPORATION OF CONNECTICUT.

BUTTONHOLE-SEW-ING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent NO. '72 6,33 5, dated April 28, 19034.

Application filed May 5, 1900. Serial ITO-15,606. (No model.)

To (LZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FREELAND W. OSTROM, a citizen of the United States, residing at Bridgeport, in the county of Fairfield and State of Connecticut, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Buttonhole- Sewing Machines, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

The object of my invention is to improve the construction of cloth-clamp-actuating mechanisms for buttouhole-sewing machines. I have shown my improved mechanism in connection with the clotlrclamp-actuating mechanism illustrated and described in United States Patent No. 303,557, dated August 12, 1884, granted to A. C. Campbell, assignor to the Wheeler and \Vilson Manufacturing Company, said mechanism comprising a part of the wellknown \Vheeler and Wilson automaticbuttonhole-sewingmachine. The mechanism illustrated in the patent referred to is designed to bar the end of a buttonhole with short bar-stitches placed substantially parallel to the side overseam-stitches, but distributed by the feed of the material in a somewhat semicircular form around the end of the buttonhole. My improved construction eliminates the short barring-stitches and ef-' fects a barring consisting of stitches substan tially twice the length of the side overseamstitches, such long barring stitches being placed equidistant across the center line of the buttonhole, producing what is commercially known as square-bar-end buttonholes.

In the accompanying drawings, illustrating my invention, in the several figures of which like parts are similarly designated, Figure 1 is a front side elevation of the buttonhole sewing machine employing the cloth-clamp actuating mechanism illustrated and described in Patent No. 303,557 with my improvement added. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same construction, on a larger scale, the overhanging arm being removed to better illustrate the application of my invention. Fig. 3 is a detail perspective view of my improved construction detached from the machine proper and illustrating in dotted lines the rotating disk carrying the barring-cams. Fig.4 is a perspective view of the compound lever dismembered. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of the connections of the oscillating lever and vibrating lever detached and dismembered. Fig. 6 is an under side view of the feed-cam and the feed cam segment and the segment-controlling parts. Fig. 7 is a plan View of the compound lever and oscillating lever with part of the ratchet-wheel in dotted lines. Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic illustration of a buttonhole produced by the machine of this invention.

In the patent referred to the feed-cam E is constructed to make a practically continuous feed,while in my improvementit is constructed with a feed cam groove f, which effects a dwell of the feed of the material lengthwise of the buttonhole during the time that the clamp is vibrated for the placing of the long barring-stitches, and the peripheral cam portions e e of the cam E (see Fig. 6) are materially shortened to permit of the increased vibration of the cloth-clamp for the formation of the long barring'stitches, and the cam is cut away at its under side for the reception and action of the cam segment, and the ratchet-wheel F is suitably drilled and tapped for the screws a a for securing the camplates a a.

Fulcrumed to the upper slide-frame C by a suit-able stud-bolt a is a compound lever consisting of two independently-movable portions a and a As shown in detailin Fig. 4, suitably housed in the portion a of the compound lever is a spring a which coacts with a suitable seat formed in the portion a to force the portions in opposite directions, the limit of such movement being determined by the lug a of the plate a coacting with the notch a, in the portion a Mounted upon the arm of the portion a of the compound lever is a roller a which coacts at predetermined intervals with first one and then the other of the cam-plates a a to move the parts a and a of the compound lever in the direction indicated by the arrow 2? and in opposition to the resiliency of the spring 12 which latter acts to return the compound lever to its idle position, as is illustrated in Fig. 7, when one or the other of the camplates a has completed its coaction with the roller (1 The spring a is constructed to overcome the resilient strength of the spring I) Without sustaining any perceptible compression. b is'a pin secured in the slideframe to limit the movement of the compound lever in a direction opposite to that indicated by the arrow 25. b is a stud secured in the slide-frame O to receive the spring 6 Fulcrumed to the stationary guideway by a stud-screw b is a lever D, its opposite end adjustably connected, through the link I), to the vibrating lever G, said link being fulcrumed' upon an eccentric L which in turn is held against movement upon the stud b by a suitable nut 11 From the foregoing it will be understood that the vibratory movement of the lever G, effected by the employment of a suitable switch-cam, as H, is transmitted to the lever D, and the extent of the movement of the lever D in the direction of the needle depends upon the adjustment of the eccentric b Mounted upon the lever D is a latch b held against a stop-pin b by a spring (1 the latter secured in a suitable housing attached to the lever D.

The operation of the hereinbefore-described. parts is as follows: The action of the camplates ct upon the roller 0. moves the portion a, of the compound lever in the direction indicated by the arrow 5 and causes the portion a to be moved in a like direction. If the latch b has been advanced by the action of the lever G sufficiently to intercept the movement of the portion a, as illustrated in Fig. 7, the said latch b will be moved in opposition to the resiliency of the spring 61 and the spring a will yield to the portion a until the next subsequent movement of the lever D in an opposite direction, permitting the part a and latch 11 to take their operative positions, as illustrated in Fig. 3, followed by a reverse movement of the levers G and D to move (through the several connections connecting the cloth-clamp T with the vibrating lever G) the material in the direction indicated by the arrow 2 for the placing of the bar-stitches at the right of the buttonholeslit, the return movement of the cloth-actuating mechanism being controlled by the action of the springs B for the placing of the anchoring-stitches of the bar-stitches at the left of the buttonhole-slit, such vibratory movements of the material continuing until one or the other of the cam-plates a has by its rotation passed the roller a permitting the barringmechanism to return to its inoperative position, as illustrated in Fig. 7, thus effecting the barring of the buttonhole by stitches reaching from depth-to-depth stitch of the side overseaming.

Asisillustratedin the aforesaid patent, No. 303,557, the cloth-clamp T, through the connection L, is given a uniform vibration during the overseaming of the two sides of the buttonhole. In the present invention at the completion of the side overseaming one of the cam-plates ct will rock the compound lever to position its part a to be struck by the latch I), carried by the lever D, causing the upper slide-frame G to be moved independently of the lower slide-frame B a distance dependent upon the adjustment of the eccentric b which eccentric should be so adjusted as to move the upper slide-frame, and consequently the cloth-clamp, a distance sufficient to bar the end of the buttonhole with long barring-stitches reaching from depth-todepth stitch of the two sides of overseaming, as already explained. The return movements of the cloth-clamp during the barring operation are controlled by the springs B B, theirapplication and operation being the same as in the patent referred to.

To the under side of the feed-cam E (see Figs. 2 and 6) is movably secured by screws 0 o a cam-segment 0, held by-a spring 0 against a shoulder 0 formed in the periphery of the feed-cam, permitting a movement of the cam-segment in the direction indicated by the arrow 1). The purpose of the segment 0 is to control the position of the purl of the stitches when placing the initial side overseam-stitches next subsequent to the barring of the end of the buttonhole opposite to that less than that of the peripheral portion 0 of the feed-cam. In actual construction the radius of the peripheral portion 0 is about one one-hundredth (fi of an inch less than the radius of the portion 0 so that the peripheral portion of the segment is free to take its position in line with the jog-roller 0 when the vibration of the clamp makes such action of the segment possible, as I will now explain. The object of yieldingly mounting the segment is to permit said segment to back away from the jog-roller as such jog-roller meets the incline of the segment and until a movement of the clamp leaves a clearance between the jog-roller and the segment equal to the difference in radius between the portions 0 and 0 when the spring 0 will operate to pull the segment forward to present its portion 0? in position to act upon the jog-roller upon the return movement and effect the placing of one, or possibly two, barring-stitches in alinement with the first-placed side stitches, thus insuring the centralizing of the purl.

The peripheral portion 0 of the feed-cam controls the position of the clamp in its lengthwise feed for the overseaming of the righthand side of the buttonhole, the position of the clamp for the overseaming of the lefthand side being controlled by the adjustingscrew 0 threaded into the jog-roller stud 0 which stud is secured in the lower slide-frame IIO vaesss 8 B, the threaded end of said screw 0" contacting with the circular portion of the upper slide-frame G, as shown in Fig. 1.

The effective length of the concentric or dead portionf of the feed-cam groove fcorresponds with the effective length of the feedcani between the points 6 and the rear wall of the portion 0 in order that the barring of one end of the buttonhole may be completed, the remainder of the operation of the feed-cam for completing the buttonhole, including the barring of the finish end, being as usual in this class of machines when employed for overseaming and -'barring buttonholes having square bar end consisting of long barringstitches.

In the operation of the machine, supposing the jog-roller 0 to have finished its travel of the peripheral portion 0 of the feed-cam in the overseaming of the right-hand side of the buttonhole, one of the cam-plates ct, through the barring mechanism, causes the clothclamp to be vibrated for the long barringstitches, such vibration being continued until the segment 0 by its rotation contacts with the jog-roller 0 when the vibration of the clamp will be in extent and position sub stantially the same as when the jogroller was in operative relation with the peripheral portion 0 of the feed-cam, causing one or perhaps two short barring-stitches to be placed in alinement with the first-placed side overseam stitches, followed by a movement of the clamp for the overseaming of the left-hand side, which would cause the sewing-threads to be carried from the right to the left of the center of the buttonhole, causing the purl of the stitch to be placed substantially central to the line of the edge stitches.

Referringto the diagrammatic view, Fig. 8, the bar 1 is what is termed the finish-bar, where the overseaming of the buttonhole is commenced and finished. In the operation of the machine one or two barring-stitches are made first in the finish end, after which the side 2 of the buttonhole is overseamed, followed by the barring of the opposite end with long barring-stitches 3, and it is during the barring of this end of the buttonhole when the segment 0 is brought into operative relation with the jog-roller o to change the amplitude of vibration of the cloth-clamp and effect the placing of the short barringstitches 44c, and the position of these stitches 4 4 relative to the center line of the buttonhole-slit depends upon the height of the coacting surface 0 of the segment 0. If the surface 0 were of the same radius as the cam portion 0 then the barring-stitches 4 t would be in line with the side overseamstitches on the side 2 of the buttonhole. In actual practice the segment is of such less radius than the surface 0 as to bring the short barringstitches 4 4 as near centrally across the line of the buttonhole-slit as is practicable. The

purpose of these short barring-stitches is, as previously stated, to cause the purl of the stitch to be started at the inner cut edge of the bu tton hole, it being understood that such short barring-stitches 4 t are placed during the dwell in the feed necessary for the barring of the buttonhole. After the placing of the short barring-stitches the lengthwise feed of the buttonhole is brought into action, and the side 5 of the buttonhole is overseamed, followed by the placing of the finishing bar ring-stitches in the finish end 1 of the buttonhole.

What I claim isn 1. In abuttonholesewing machine,the combination of a stitch-forming mechanism, a clamp for holding and feeding the material, and clamp-actuating mechanism including a cam provided with a concentric portion for controlling the position of the material relatively to the buttonhole-slit, said cam provided with a yieldingly-secured segment the radius of which is substantially that of the said concentric portion, substantially as and for the purpose described.

2. In abuttonhole-sewing machine,a stitcl1 forming mechanism, a clamp for holding and feeding the material, and clamp-actuating mechanism including a cam provided with a concentric portion for controlling the position of the material relatively to the buttonhole-slit, said cam provided with a yieldinglysecured segment the radius of which is substantially that of the said concentric portion, in combination with coactinglevers for chang ing the amplitude of vibration of the clothclamp during the barring operation, substantially as described.

3. Inabuttonhole-sewingmachine,astitch forming mechanism, a clamp for holding and feeding the material, and clamp-actuating mechanism including a jog-roller, and a cam provided with a yieldingly-secured segment cooperating with said jog-roller, in combination with a switch-cam, avibratin g lever, and coacting levers interposed between the said vibrating lever and the cam which carries the yieldingly-secured segment, the action of said levers being periodically controlled by said clamp-actuating mechanism, substantially as described.

4. I11 a buttonhole-sewing machine,a stitchforming mechanism, a clamp for holding and feeding the material, means for controlling the movements of said clamp in opposite directions including a feed cam, means to change the position of the cloth-holding clamp with relation to the stitch-forming mechanism for the formation of the edge and depth stitches, means to effect the barring of the ends of the buttonhole with relatively long barring-stitches, including a switch-cam, a vibrating lever, and an oscillating lever, one end of which oscillating lever is secured to a stationary portion of the machine and its opposite end operatively connected with the vibrating lever, a lever secured to the slideframe carrying the cloth-clamp, and means including a suitable cam to cause said lever to periodically coact with said oscillating lever, substantially as described.

5. In abuttonhole-sewing machine, a stitchforming mechanism, a clamp for holding and feeding the material, actuating mechanism therefor including means for controlling the feed movements of said clamp in opposite directions, and means including a switch-cam and vibrating lever, to change the position of the clamp with relation to the stitch-forming mechanism for the formation of the edge and depth stitches,in combination with means for effecting the barring of the bnttonhole with long barring-stitches, including coacting levers, one of which is controlled in its predetermined coaction with its complementary lever by suitable cams secured to and carried by the mechanism employed for feeding the material for the action of the needle, its complementary lever connected with and actuated by the aforesaid means employed to change the position of said cloth-clamp, for the formation of edge and depth stitches, substantially as described.

6. In a buttonhole-sewing machine,a stitchforming mechanism, a clamp for holding and feeding the material, a vibrating lever, actuating mechanism for said clamp including a cam for controlling the movements of said clamp in opposite directions, and a segment yieldingly secured to said cam, in combination with coacting levers interposed between the cloth-holding clamp and the vibrating lever, one of which levers is sectionally constrncted and its sections capable of movement independently one of the other, substantially as described.

7. Inabuttonhole-sewingmachine,astitchformingmechanism,a vibrating lever,aclamp for holding and feeding the material, actuating mechanism for said clamp including a cam for controlling the movement of said clamp in opposite directions, in combination with coacting levers interposed between the cloth-holding clamp and the vibrating lever, said levers sectionally constructed, and their sections capable of movement independently one of the other, substantially as described.

8. Inabuttonhole-sewingmachine,astitchforming mechanism,a cloth-clamp, and means to vibrate said clamp, in combination with mechanism for changing the position of the cloth-clam p with relation to the stitch-forming mechanism for the placing of the long bar-stitches in the opposite ends of the buttonhole, including coacting levers, and an adj ust-able eccentric with which one of said levers is operatively connected to control the amplitude of vibration of the cloth-clamp to vary the length of the barring stitches, substantially as described.

9. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, stitchforming mechanism, anda clamp for holding and feeding the material, combined with a feed-cam provided with ayieldingly-secured segment, and a jog-roller with which said segment cooperates for changing the amplitude of vibration of the clamp for laying short barring-stitches and thereby centralizing the purl, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand this 4th day of May, A. D. 1900.

FREELAND OSTROM.

Witnesses:

WM. H. FINcKEL, JANE S. FAIR. 

